Surfing is much more than a form of exercise or a hobby. For me, surfing is a way of life.

I learned to bodysurf with my dad at La Jolla Shores in the summer of 1953. I have been board surfing on a regular basis since 1961. My term as president of the UCSD Surf Club, 1967-1968 was my last brush with organized surfing. Now I'm just in it for the quality of the experience. Over the years I've traveled to some other exotic surf destinations including Tahiti (Huahine), Fiji (Tavarua), Hawaii (North Shore of Oahu), Baja California (of course, above center & right), mainland Mexico, and Costa Rica (above left).

Only a surfer knows the feeling.