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Día de Muertos in Oaxaca

Murals & “Sand Paintings”

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What’s Going On

The general theme of the dead yucking it up either in the land of the dead or back among us on Día de Muertos informs a surprising amount of what seems to be semi-permanent art. Generally speaking, cheerful skeletons are shown engaged in mundane tasks or joyous celebration.

When there are texts, however, the theme is emphatically the need to remember the dead. The stress seems to be almost entirely on the family dead. If Oaxacans were Chinese, they would probably include teachers and historical heroes. (Important research finding: Mexicans are not Chinese.)

The mural pictures here decorate a long alley between the church and the cemetery in the town of Zaachila, near the eponymous archaeological site. They derive from a yearly mural contest and remain in place till the artists or wall owners decide to remove them.

The “sand painting” pictures on the same street are temporary. Interestingly, they seem for the most part to be offered by public agencies, like the traffic police.

(The usual name for them is “sand paintings” even though little sand is involved. In this case the term refers to collages displayed flat on the ground (or on a low table) made with flowers, seeds, flour, bits of bark, and other natural products, Rose-Parade-fashion. I suspect that the underlying base is usually a wooden board covered with a layer of soft clay. Unless it’s not.)

photo by DKJ
Cemetery Entrance
Most funeral processions proceed up this street, past the vendors, and into the cemetery.
photo by DKJ
Street Down to the Church


The Murals

photo by DKJ
“It is not a ‘farewell forever,’ but a ‘see you soon.’”
photo by DKJ

photo by DKJ
The Wall of a Pizza Parlor
photo by DKJ
“The best go first.”

photo by DKJ
“Death does not exist. People only die when they are forgotten.”
photo by DKJ
“People only die when they are forgotten.” “I'll never forget you! (Coco)”

photo by DKJ
“Remembering Our Dead and Their Traditions”
photo by DKJ

photo by DKJ
How do you paint a mural on a surface marred by electric meters? (I think this may be my favorite mural.)
photo by DKJ


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The “Sand Paintings”

photo by DKJ
Sponsored by Alcohol Office
photo by DKJ
Sponsored by Board of Education

photo by DKJ
Sponsored by Recycling Advocates
photo by DKJ
Ecology Mural
“The mistake consists of believing that the earth is ours whereas in reality we belong to it.”

photo by DKJ
Sponsored by the Tourist Office (You've got to love the skeleton invading the church with a camera.)
photo by DKJ
Sponsored by the Sports Council


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Background Design: Artisanal Paper, Francisco Toledo